Most of today was spent creating a magnificent guide to Montauk for Max's exciting secret birthday weekend. All the guidebooks seem to stop at East Hampton in their descriptions of Long Island, so I spent hours collating information from websites about nice places to go and things to eat and writing it up into a nice bound book (kind of).
The coolest thing I found out is that Andy Warhol had an estate in Montauk (now on sale for $50million) and many extremely cool people hung out there, among the most frequent visitors were the Stones. In fact the Memory Motel from the Stones song is in Montauk. But the song isn't about a Montaukian lady who bewitched Mick, but rather Annie Liebowitz, apparently.
Montauk was designed to be the Miami Beach of the northeast when Carl G. Fisher bought it in 1926 (how do you buy a town?) and built Montauk Manor - where we're staying. But then the Depression happened and Fisher's vision wasn't realised so it's now the poor relation to the Hamptons, which you have to drive through to get there, right at the tip of Long Island.
The most frightening thing I discovered in my guidebook compilation is that there's a Sinister Government Compound in one of the many state parks there - Camp Hero. First, I have to explain that Max and I have a thing about Sinister Government Compounds. Whenever we come across a weird an incongruous building or structure - like on a deserted mountain road in Greece or whatever - we always say it's a Sinister Government Compound (occasionally abbreviated to SGC if we're going for brevity, but not very often).
Anyway, Camp Hero absolutely is an actual SGC!! After it was decommissioned as a military fort where lots of radar technology was pioneered, it became the base for the Montauk Project - a series of secret government projects developing powerful psychological warfare weaponry that could 'drive an enemy insane, inducing the symptoms of psychotic disorders and schizophrenia at the touch of a button'.
Legend has it that Congress refused to approve the project, so the researchers approached the DoD, who agreed to fund it in top secret, using Nazi gold! And then the internet crazies start going on about time travel and time portals, but that's just silly.
With the guide, in all its technicolor glory, completed, I dashed off for an all-important leg wax, which was easily the worst of my life (the lady spread the wax UP my leg! I think her mind had been fried at Camp Hero), then went to meet Maxy for his voyage of mystery and wonder.
As proud as I was of my bespoke Montauk guidebook, it turns out that Max has had a slightly more impressive day - 230,000 people and counting have read his piece about who is able to tell Hillary to throw in the towel. Hmm, well done.
Max did very well on our ride to the airport to be excitedly curious about where I could possibly be taking him, despite the fact that I gave him a collection of F. Scott Fitzgerald short stories last week by way of preparation, he suggested Montauk in the first place and he booked our flights to La Guardia (the BBC has a great deal with US Airways, whereby tickets are 100% flexible, so if you miss the flight you're booked on, you can just get the next one).
All went very well at the airport, despite us arriving only 30mins before departure (I managed to stay uncharacteristically zen on the way there, despite everything taking ages, safe in the knowledge of the BBC deal). We didn't even really need our passports, because internal flights are just like buses, according to Max.
Unfortunately the smooth streak of luck ended when we went through security. Standing in the queue, I never connected the clear bags of mini bottles of shower gel and stuff being presented by people with the socking great bottle of champagne I had in my handbag.
Unfortunately the security man did and ripped the bottle out of my bag. I tried for a while to insist that there surely wasn't a problem as long as it was all sealed up (I'm a logistical genius!) and ask whether a flight attendant could look after it for me until we got to New York, but the jig was up and I grumpily had to wish the security men a fun night on my special birthday champagne and slope off to the gate, with one of Max's surprises spoiled and no champagne to drink on arrival.
Just as I had to stay zen about running really late for the flight, I had to suppress the grump/sadness that would usually set in in this situation and be fun Birthday Monitor for Max. I had the opportunity to wallow when Max nipped into a shop, but then a man walked past and complimented me on my new 'Little Lebowski Urban Achiever' t-shirt, which cheered me up.
The flight of dreams, which didn't cost much, didn't require a passport and to which we could rock up really late, ended up being delayed by 30mins and we had to sit on the runway. But we watched 'Pushing Daisies' on Max's iPod, so it wasn't too much of a hassle and we were soon at LaGuardia, riding a shuttle bus to the car hire place.
Max enjoys navigating whenever we drive anywhere - he loves the maps - but I got a car with satnav this time, so Max wouldn't find out where we were going, and so that he could enjoy the ride. I also presented him with his first present to open - an iTrip, which lets you play your iPod through your radio. This is something he's been quite obsessed with for a while and all champagne contraband was forgotten as a robot (we named her Polly) guided us out of the airport and Max got excited about his iTrip. Technology is great.
It turns out that the good citizens of upstate New York don't need sustenance on their roadtrips as we couldn't find one service station to eat at on the 3 hour drive to Montauk. It became something of a desperate mission - we even dived off the road at one point, following a sign promising knives and forks, but got totally lost and nearly melted the satnav as it constantly had to recalculate our route. Tell you what, though - satnav is incredible. I'd never driven with it before, but can safely say now that Max and his maps are obsolete - it's me and Polly all the way.
Finally, at about 11.30pm, we saw an oasis of neon in the darkness and were never so happy to see a diner that probably made omelettes with eggs from a carton. We ate and ate and ate and then hit the road again, me trying to distract Max from the enormous signs directing us to Montauk and then, as we drove through the Hamptons, trying to pretend that there might be something other than Montauk beyond them. Long Island is long and thin, so this was woefully unlikely.
Maxy was very excited as we entered Montauk and we finally managed to find Montauk Manor, despite Polly saying we'd arrived when we were in the middle of a deserted road. It was gone midnight and it was a little eery to walk through the dark, stone lobby of this big faux-Tudor manor house, where a random man was sifting through bits of paper at a random desk. The night receptionist (different from sifting man) was a gruff fellow of few words who looked a little like a fisherman and, I suspect, shared many mental qualities with Jack Torrance from 'The Shining'.
For all the grandeur of the hotel, our room looks a little like a chalet from 'Hi-de-Hi!' - kind of outdated and basic. But the layout is really cool. There's a kitchenette and sitting room on the ground floor, then a mezzanine level across half of the room, with a bed platform and little bathroom. So there's a ceiling across the kitchenette, but then the sitting room's ceiling is basically double height and there's a huge floor-to-ceiling window, which will flood the place with light in the daytime. Unfortunately said window has no curtains, so I suspect we'll be seeing said daylight sooner rather than later...
